Frequently asked questions

Call (407) 577-6400 or use the free quote tool. Tell us the address and what you need; we confirm the lawn size and condition and give you a price before any work starts.

Mainly the square footage of turf, how easy the yard is to reach (gates, slopes, fenced pools) and how often we visit. Extra services like trimming, cleanups or fertilization are priced on their own.

No. The quote tool gives a starting point. We confirm the size, condition and access of your property and give you the final price before any work starts.

Yes, and they help. Add them in the last step of the quote tool, or text them after you call.

Yes. Plans are a starting point. Tell us what to add or remove and we quote the change before it applies.

It depends on the square footage of turf, slopes, gates and fenced pools, and how often we visit. A lot in a gated Davenport community and a half-acre on a county road are not the same job, so we quote each address. Call (407) 577-6400 or use the free quote tool.

Two lawns on the same street can need very different time and equipment, and a posted price would be wrong for one of them. We give you a firm price for your address before any work starts.

Usually, yes. A recurring visit keeps the grass at the right height, so each cut is quick. A first cut on tall grass takes more time and may need a cleanup, so it is quoted on its own.

We look at the area, the materials (plants, mulch, stone, pavers), the prep work and the access for equipment. You get a written quote with those items listed, so you can change a line without redoing the whole project.

Height and trunk size, what is under and around the tree (roof, screen cage, pool, power lines), how close we can get a truck, and whether you want the stump ground. Send photos with your quote request and we can narrow it down before the visit.

Yes. We confirm the scope and the price before work begins, and nothing is added to a job or a care plan without a new quote from us.

Monday to Friday, 6:00 AM to 8:00 PM (Florida time), at (407) 577-6400. Messages and quote requests sent on the weekend are answered from Monday.

Light rain usually doesn’t stop yard work. Lightning, heavy storms and waterlogged lawns do; then we move the visit to the next available day and let you know.

Not for outdoor work, as long as gates are unlocked and pets are inside. For indoor services, we agree on access with you first.

Grass grows slowly in the cooler months, so many lawns can be mowed every other week from late fall to early spring. Your quote says how the visit schedule changes by season.

Usually weekly in the rainy season. UF/IFAS says to remove no more than one third of the blade per mowing, and in June–September St. Augustine grows fast enough that a longer gap breaks that rule and stresses the lawn.

Central Florida’s rainy season runs roughly June to September, with storms most afternoons. We plan visits earlier in the day when we can. If a storm or a soaked lawn stops a visit, we move it to the next available day and tell you.

That is the plan. Recurring customers get a set day, and the same crew where possible. Rain or an emergency job can move a visit, and we let you know when it does.

Warm-season grasses like St. Augustine, Bahia and Zoysia slow down in cool weather, and a light frost can turn the tips brown. They green up again in spring. Winter visits are less frequent for that reason.

Hurricane season runs June 1 to November 30. Before it starts, remove dead palm fronds and seed stalks, thin and shorten weak tree limbs, and pick up loose debris. UF/IFAS says correct pruning is the most important step. Book it before the season starts, not when a storm is already on the map.

Yes, for fallen limbs, palm fronds and yard debris. Trees or limbs touching power lines are left to the utility. Call (407) 577-6400 with a photo of the damage and we schedule you as soon as the roads and the crew allow.

Zelle (407-577-6400), ACH bank transfer, cash, Apple Pay, Venmo (@galapagoslawncare), Cash App ($galapagoslawncare), and credit or debit cards.

Zelle payments appear under our registered name, CG El Quinde Shop Corp. If you’re unsure, call (407) 577-6400 before sending.

Every invoice we email or text has a private link where you can see it and the ways to pay it. You can also pay with any method on our payments page.

Your invoice number. If you don’t have one, your name and the service address, so we can match the payment quickly.

It depends on your water management district and can change during droughts. Osceola County (SFWMD) uses a two-day rule; Polk County (SWFWMD) and Lake County (SJRWMD) currently have one-day-a-week shortage orders. Each city page shows the rule for that area with a link to the official source.

In unincorporated Lake County, fertilizer with nitrogen or phosphorus isn’t allowed on lawns from June 1 to September 30. Osceola and Polk counties have no summer ban, but no fertilizer during tropical storm or hurricane watches, and Polk also bans it when more than 2 inches of rain is likely within 24 hours. We follow the rule for your address.

UF/IFAS recommends 3.5–4 inches for standard St. Augustine, 3–4 inches for Bahia and 2–2.5 inches for coarse Zoysia, removing no more than a third of the blade at a time.

Weekly from about April through October, when grass grows fastest, so no cut removes more than a third of the blade. Many lawns can go every other week from November to March. We set the schedule to your grass and adjust it with the season.

Your quote spells out the service, the frequency and the price before anything starts. If you want everything on one plan, our property care plans bundle lawn, beds and seasonal work. Call (407) 577-6400 to talk through what fits.

In summer, a common cause is chinch bugs, which start in hot, sunny, dry spots. In fall and winter it is often large patch, a fungus with darker or orange edges. Dry irrigation zones look similar. We check which one it is before anything is treated.

Yes. We are a bilingual company: quotes, scheduling, texts and on-site questions in English or Spanish, whichever you prefer.

Summer storms usually pass in the afternoon, so most visits still happen. Mowing soaked grass tears the blades and ruts the soil, so if a storm sets in we move your visit and let you know.

Long enough to apply ½–¾ inch of water, which UF/IFAS recommends per irrigation. That time depends on the head type: rotors take much longer than spray heads. We measure and set each zone.

UF/IFAS notes that year-round planting is common in most of Florida. Warm months root fastest; the dry spring needs the most careful watering. Your water district’s establishment rules apply whatever the month.

Yes, for limbs, fronds and yard debris. Fallen or hanging trees are quoted as tree work. Anything touching a power line is for the utility company first.

Right after they finish blooming in spring. Trimming in fall or winter removes next year’s flower buds.

Around February 15, before five days in a row at 65–70 °F, according to UF/IFAS Extension in Osceola County. Applied later, it controls less. A second application in October targets winter weeds.

It depends on the grass. Bahia needs only 1–2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet a year and St. Augustine 2–5, with no more than 1 pound per application (UF/IFAS). That works out to a few applications between early April and early October, fewer for Bahia.

Yes. It includes everything in a mowing visit plus a check for dry spots, insect damage, fungus and sprinkler problems, and hand-pulling weeds in beds. You hear from us when something needs attention.

We blow clippings off driveways, walks and the street, but leave them on the lawn. UF/IFAS recommends this: clippings break down quickly and feed the soil. If you need them bagged for a special reason, ask when you get your quote.

Early morning, within the hours your district allows. UF/IFAS advises watering only in the morning to keep the lawn from staying damp, which helps prevent large patch.

For a limited time, yes. Each water district allows extra watering while new sod establishes (for example, any day for the first 30 days in SWFWMD and the first 15 days in SJRWMD). After that window, the normal schedule applies.

Most residential cleanups are done in a day. Very overgrown or large properties can take longer; your quote will say.

Enough for air to move freely around the condenser; check your unit’s manual for the manufacturer’s clearance. We trim back anything crowding it on every visit.

Carefully. Many lawn herbicide labels prohibit use when temperatures are expected to be 85 °F or higher, because the grass can be damaged too. In summer we spot-treat in the cooler part of the day when the label allows, or wait for fall.

No. UF/IFAS’s Central Florida calendar recommends against weed-and-feed products. Fertilizer and weed treatments are timed separately, because the best time for one is rarely the best time for the other.

They are quoted separately, because the timing depends on your grass and your county’s fertilizer rules. You can add them to the same schedule, or bundle everything in a property care plan.

You can, but in the rainy season two weeks of growth usually means cutting off more than a third of the blade, which stresses the lawn and leaves clumps. We recommend weekly from spring through fall and every other week in the cool months.

Yes. Section 373.62 of the Florida Statutes requires automatic irrigation systems to have working technology that interrupts watering during sufficient moisture.

When it has rooted and won’t lift at the edges when you pull on it, usually a couple of weeks after installation.

Photos help us give you a faster estimate. If the photos don’t show everything, we confirm in person before work starts.

Sometimes in one visit, often in stages, depending on the plant. Cutting too hard at once can leave bare stems for months. We tell you what to expect before we start.

Dollarweed thrives where the soil stays wet, so it often points to overwatering or a low spot that drains poorly. Treating it without fixing the water usually means it comes back.

Wait at least 30 days after planting, per UF/IFAS. In Polk County the ordinance also bans nitrogen and phosphorus before sodding and for the first 30 days after.

Yes. We work with vacation-rental and out-of-state owners. We can set the visit day around your bookings and contact you by phone, text or email, in English or Spanish.

No. We just need access to the back yard on your day, pets inside, and toys or hoses off the lawn.

Your water management district sets them, based on your address. Each of our city pages lists the current rule and links to the district. When we service your system, we set the controller for you.

It shouldn’t be. UF/IFAS’s establishment guide starts with removing existing vegetation and preparing the soil. Sod laid over old turf and weeds roots poorly and unevenly.

No. A cleanup is a one-time job. You can add regular mowing or maintenance afterward so the yard doesn’t slide back.

Yes. Trimming can run every few visits on the same day as the mowing, priced as part of your schedule.

Treated weeds usually die back over a couple of weeks, depending on the weed and the product. The bare spots they leave need time for the grass to fill in, which is faster in the growing season.

Usually not. UF/IFAS says a soil test is required to identify a phosphorus deficiency before adding it, and Lake County requires 0% phosphorus from October through May.

UF/IFAS describes yellow-to-brown patches, sometimes dead in the center, starting in sunny, water-stressed areas. They suggest vacuuming a square foot where dead meets green grass and looking for the tiny insects on white paper. If you see it, call us and we’ll look before anything is treated.

Regular mowing and edging is the core of most HOA lawn rules. Tell us about any notice you’ve received and we’ll set the schedule so the yard stays within those standards.

Call us to talk about the project. Larger installs and system redesigns are quoted after a site visit.

It depends on the square footage, the grass you choose, how much old turf and debris has to come out, and the grading needed. We measure and give you a written price before work starts.

When weeds cover most of an area, replacing it with new sod can be faster. When the lawn is mostly healthy, treating and thickening the grass is cheaper. We’ll tell you which makes sense for your yard.

Follow the product label on re-entry, which is usually after the granules are watered in and the lawn has dried. We tell you what was applied and when it is fine to use the yard again.

It depends on the square footage of grass, access (gates, slopes, fenced pools) and how often we come. We confirm those and give you a per-visit price before the first cut. Call (407) 577-6400 or request a free quote.

UF/IFAS advises waiting at least 30 days after planting, and Polk County’s ordinance bars nitrogen and phosphorus for 30 days after sodding. After that, follow your county’s calendar; Lake and Orange ban nitrogen and phosphorus from June 1 to September 30.

In our area it is usually St. Augustine, zoysia or bahia, and each needs a different mowing height. We identify it on the first visit and set the mower to match.

St. Augustine has wide, blunt blades and thick runners. Bahia is coarser, with Y-shaped seed stalks. Zoysia is fine and dense. Each is cut at a different height, so we identify it on the first visit instead of guessing.

Chinch bugs are the main pest of St. Augustine grass. They leave yellow-to-brown patches, often in hot, full-sun spots next to pavement, and the centers die. A lawn cut too short or over-fertilized is more at risk. Call us before you treat; the patch can also be drought or disease.

It is often large patch, a fungus active in cooler weather (below about 80°F, November through May). Water only in the morning and only when the lawn needs it, and go easy on fast-release fertilizer. A photo helps us tell it from chinch bugs or drought.

In Central Florida, pre-emergent goes down around February 15, before five straight days at 65–70°F. Later is less effective. In hot weather many herbicide labels say not to spray at 85°F or higher, so we time sprays for cooler mornings.

UF/IFAS puts the first application in early April, after green-up, and the last around early October, with no more than 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft each time. Local rules also apply; Lake and Orange counties ban nitrogen and phosphorus June 1–September 30.

On regular mowing we leave the clippings on the lawn, as UF/IFAS recommends, and blow them off driveways, sidewalks and the street so they don’t reach storm drains. Cleanups and heavy cuts are different: the debris is hauled away.

UF/IFAS suggests several short waterings a day (5–10 minutes) for the first 7–10 days, then once a day for another 7–10 days. Check the watering rule for your address, because new-sod exceptions differ by water district. Hold off on mowing until it has rooted and doesn’t lift at the edges.

Most likely the rain sensor is broken, disconnected or not wired in. Florida law (F.S. 373.62) requires automatic systems to have working rain-shutoff technology. We test the sensor on every irrigation visit and report what we find.

Florida law (s. 373.185(3)(b), F.S.) says a deed restriction or covenant may not prohibit an owner from implementing Florida-friendly landscaping. Your HOA can still review the design, so submit the plan before installing.

We plant throughout the year. What matters most is getting them water while they establish: plantings before the rainy season need careful watering through the dry spring, and every water district has its own establishment schedule.

Yes. A single bed refresh, a few replacement shrubs or fresh mulch is fine. Call (407) 577-6400 or send photos through the quote form.

Yes. Bed weeding, shrub trimming and mulch refreshes can go on the same schedule as your lawn care, or into a property care plan.

Almost always because of the base: too thin, not compacted in layers, or washed out by water that wasn’t directed away. Fixing sunken pavers means lifting them and rebuilding the base underneath.

Often at first, then tapering as roots spread into the soil. Your water district allows extra watering for new plantings for a set period, and we program it for your address.

It depends on the spot. Rock lasts longer and handles runoff and traffic. Organic mulch, per UF/IFAS, does a better job of controlling weeds, keeping soil temperature even and improving the soil. Planted beds usually do better with mulch.

UF/IFAS recommends 2–3 inches around established plants and about 1 inch around seedlings and small plants, with the base of each plant left bare.

We prepare a simple plan and plant list; the homeowner normally submits it, because the application is in the owner’s name. We wait for approval before installing.

It depends on your city or county and the size of the project, and HOAs usually require approval for front-yard changes. Check before starting; we can help you find out what applies.

Yes. We try to match what’s there so the bed stays uniform, or suggest a better fit if the old plant died because of the spot.

Yes, under rock beds we lay landscape fabric to keep the stone from sinking into the sand. Debris that settles on top can still sprout weeds, so the beds need occasional blowing out.

Usually not all of it. Old organic mulch is still feeding the soil. We remove what is piled on trunks or too deep, then top up to the right depth.

Often, yes. Lawn spray heads in a new bed waste water and soak foliage. We adjust or cap heads and set establishment watering within your district’s rules.

Sealing is optional. It can help with stains and keep joint sand in place, but it needs redoing over time. Regular cleaning and re-sanding matter more.

There are good shade options for Central Florida. Tell us how many hours of sun the bed gets and we’ll suggest plants that fit the light, the space and your HOA rules.

Many associations allow it with approved colors or in certain areas only. Check your guidelines or ask the management company; we install to whatever they specify.

UF/IFAS does not recommend it, because it may be sourced from wetlands. Pine bark, pine straw, eucalyptus and melaleuca are the alternatives it lists.

Yes. A common order is hardscape and main beds first, then accent plants and lighting later. The plan shows the whole picture so each phase fits.

It depends on square footage, the paver you choose, the pattern, how much digging and base work the site needs, and access. You get a written price after we measure.

Yes. Summer rain helps keep new roots moist, as long as the beds drain. Spring plantings need the closest watering.

By the area and depth (which sets how much stone), the type of rock, the edging, and how much prep comes first. We measure and give you a written price.

Most beds need a top-up once or twice a year to stay at 2–3 inches; pine straw more often because it breaks down faster.

It depends on the size of the area, the plants and materials, how much has to come out first, and any hardscape. After the site visit you get a written price before any work starts.

By the amount of material your beds need, the type of mulch, and how much prep (weeding, edging, old mulch) comes first. We measure and quote before starting.

Florida law requires anyone excavating to notify Sunshine 811 at least two full business days before digging, and the statute has no homeowner exemption. When we plant or grind stumps, we request the locate.

UF/IFAS recommends 2–3 inches over established beds, kept about a foot clear of tree trunks and a few inches from small plants. Piling it against a trunk holds moisture on the bark and invites rot.

Mulch feeds the soil as it breaks down and keeps roots cooler; rock doesn’t, and it holds heat in a Florida summer. Rock suits drainage strips, pathways and spots where you want a clean, fixed look. Many yards use both.

Not on that basis. Florida Statute 373.185 says a deed restriction or covenant can’t prohibit an owner from implementing Florida-friendly landscaping. The HOA can still review things like plant height or placement, so we work from your community’s written rules.

We walk the property, listen to what you want and what bothers you, and look at sun, drainage and HOA limits. Then you get a plan and a plant list with a written quote. Installation starts after you approve it.

More than established plants, and the water district allows extra days for new landscaping. In Osceola (SFWMD), days 1–30 allow any day except Friday and days 31–90 Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday. We leave a watering schedule that fits your address.

No. UF/IFAS found that palms stripped down to a few fronds were more likely to lose their crowns in the 2004–05 hurricanes. Remove only fully brown fronds, pods and flower stalks.

When there are fully brown fronds, seed pods or flower stalks to remove. UF/IFAS says there is no best time of year; many owners have it done once or twice a year, and before hurricane season for pods and dead fronds.

Before it starts on June 1. UF/IFAS recommends pruning trees taller than about 15 feet before the season, by an ISA-certified arborist, removing dead wood and thinning the outer canopy.

We trim for clearance around the service drop to your house where it is safe to do so. Branches touching utility lines on the street are the utility company’s job; call them.

It depends on your city or county and your HOA. Under s. 163.045, F.S., no local permit can be required on a single-family lot when an ISA-certified arborist or licensed landscape architect documents the tree as an unacceptable risk. Otherwise, check local rules before removal.

Tree removal takes out one tree. Complete removal clears an area: several trees and palms, stumps and roots, debris and rough grading, so the ground is ready for the next project.

A palm with no green fronds left is usually past saving. Yellowing lower fronds, on the other hand, are often a nutrient problem, according to UF/IFAS. Send us a photo and we’ll take a look.

Sometimes. Rules vary by city, county and HOA. A local permit can’t be required on a single-family lot when an ISA-certified arborist or Florida-licensed landscape architect documents the tree as an unacceptable risk (s. 163.045, F.S.). Otherwise check before removal.

No. UF/IFAS advises against removing yellow or half-dead fronds: they often signal a nutrient deficiency, and the palm is still drawing nutrients from them. Only fully brown fronds should come off.

No. UF/IFAS advises against topping and recommends thinning and shortening branches instead. We can reduce the crown correctly over time, or talk about removal if the tree is wrong for the spot.

Possibly. Clearing for a project is the kind of work local rules and HOAs most often regulate. Check with your city or county and your HOA before work starts; we can help you find out.

It is an option. You can leave the base flush, or have it ground or dug out so the spot can be replanted or sodded. Your quote says which.

Your quote says what happens to the stump: cut flush, or ground below grade so the area can be sodded or planted. Grinding requires a Sunshine 811 locate first.

No. UF/IFAS says spike wounds on palms never heal and can let in disease. We work from ladders or lifts.

Far enough that they don’t touch or rub the roof in wind, and don’t drop leaves straight into the gutters. We cut back to a healthy branch or the trunk rather than leaving stubs.

Yes. Our lawn care and landscaping crews can sod, plant or mulch the cleared area so it doesn’t sit as bare sand through the rainy season.

Usually, yes, by taking it down in small sections and carrying pieces out. Access through the cage door and protecting the screen and deck are part of the plan and the price.

Get everyone out of the affected area, stay away from any downed lines and call the utility if lines are involved. Then call us at (407) 577-6400, and your insurance company.

Yes. UF/IFAS says removing flower and fruit stalks doesn’t harm palms, and it keeps fruit and seeds off pool decks, patios and walks.

Dead or dangerous limbs should come off whenever you see them. For storm preparation, UF/IFAS recommends pruning larger trees before hurricane season starts on June 1.

By the number and size of trees and palms, stumps and roots to remove, access for equipment, debris volume and the grading needed. You get a written price after we walk the area.

It depends on the height and species, what’s around it (roof, pool cage, fence), access, and whether the root ball comes out. We give you a written price after looking.

It depends on the tree’s size and condition, what it’s close to, access for equipment and what you want done with the stump. We assess and give you a written price.

It depends on how many palms, their height and species, how much dead material and fruit there is, and access. We count and quote in writing.

It depends on the size of the tree, how much work it needs, what it hangs over (roof, pool cage, lines) and access for equipment. We look and give you a written price.

Dead fronds and seed stalks can come off any time of year. The most useful window is before June 1, so loose fronds are not left up for hurricane season. Live green fronds stay on the palm; UF/IFAS warns that cutting them weakens it.

No. UF/IFAS says spikes leave wounds on a palm that never heal. We work from ladders or lifts and keep tools clean between palms to avoid spreading disease.

Usually not. Yellowing lower fronds often point to a nutrient shortage, and the palm is still pulling nutrients from them. Removing only fully brown fronds and the flower and fruit stalks is the safer cut.

On residential property, Florida Statute 163.045 says a city or county can’t require a permit, fee or mitigation when an ISA-certified arborist or a Florida-licensed landscape architect documents the tree as an unacceptable risk. It doesn’t cover HOA rules, and other trees may need a permit. Call before we cut.

UF/IFAS recommends an ISA-certified arborist for trees over about 15 feet, and for any tree that leans, cracks, has dead limbs over the house or shows decay. A quick look from the ground can tell if it needs a trim or removal.

Yes, stump grinding can be added to the quote. Before grinding or digging, Sunshine 811 has the underground lines marked, which takes at least two full business days, so plan for that gap.

We coordinate pest control through a licensed pest control provider. Galapagos does not hold a pest control license; the licensed company performs the treatment.

No. You can book any property service on its own. If you already have lawn visits, we can schedule it alongside them.

No. Pest control is done through a licensed pest control company that we coordinate with. We tell you the company’s name so you can check its license with FDACS.

Yes. Lawn, pressure washing, windows, house cleaning and carpet cleaning can be quoted together and scheduled around your bookings.

Paint and coatings need dry surfaces, so we move them to the next dry slot and let you know. Washing can usually go ahead in light rain.

A licensed pest control company we coordinate with. Galapagos does not hold a pest control license and our crews don’t apply pest treatments.

In most master-planned communities, yes, even for the same color. Get approval before work starts and send us the approved color codes.

No. Filling and coating are cosmetic. A slab that has heaved, sunk or broken into moving pieces needs concrete repair or replacement, and we tell you if that’s the case.

Not always. Old pet stains, bleach spots and dye transfer may only lighten. We tell you what to expect before we start.

Yes. We agree a checklist and an access routine with you, clean between check-out and check-in, and report damage or missing items with photos.

Light and recent spots, yes. Mineral spots that have baked on for years may not come off completely. We’ll tell you what to expect, and adjusting the sprinkler heads keeps them from coming back.

Many owners do it about once a year, often after the rainy season. Shaded driveways, sprinkler overspray and rentals usually need it more often.

Not every house does. They help most where roof runoff washes out beds, splashes the walls or pools against the slab, pool deck or entry.

Ask us for the company name and search it on the FDACS Pest Control Database Search (aeslicensing.fdacs.gov).

Yes. The EPA’s RRP rule requires certified firms for paid work that disturbs paint in pre-1978 homes. Tell us the build year and we’ll say up front whether we can take the job.

It depends on the product and the weather. We give you the walk-on and drive-on times for the product we use on your driveway.

Keep traffic light, run the AC or ceiling fans, and put furniture back once the carpet is dry to the touch. Drying takes longer on humid days.

Tell us your preference when you request a quote. Some owners want their own products used, especially in rentals.

Yes, on request. Tell us when you ask for a quote so it’s included in the price.

Not at the right pressure. Pavers get lower pressure than plain concrete so the joint sand stays in place. Some joint sand may need topping up after a deep clean.

Away from the foundation and toward the lawn or a bed that can absorb the water. Each discharge point is shown on your quote before installation.

Sometimes (chinch bugs in St. Augustine), but drought stress, mowing too short and fungal disease look similar. We check the lawn first so the right fix is used.

Yes, with care. We paint in the mornings, watch the forecast and move days when storms are coming, so the paint has dry hours to set.

Yes, within what your HOA allows. Many communities have approved colors for driveways, so check the rules or send us the list.

By the number of rooms or square feet of carpet, area rugs, stairs and how much spot treatment is needed.

By square footage, bedrooms and bathrooms, how often we come, and whether it is a regular, deep or turnover cleaning.

By the number and size of windows, the number of stories, inside and/or outside, and whether screens and tracks are included.

No, as long as we can reach an outside water faucet and the cars are off the driveway.

By the linear feet of gutter, the number of downspouts and extensions, and roof height and access. You get a written price before work starts.

That question belongs to the licensed provider, who chooses the products and gives re-entry instructions. We put you in touch before the first treatment.

By wall area, trim and doors, the number of stories, how much prep the surface needs and the number of colors.

By square feet of surface, the material and how much buildup there is. Driveway, walks and deck can be priced together.

Many HOAs regulate exterior changes, including gutter color. Check your community’s rules and send us any approval requirements with your quote request.

Tell us the year the house was built. Work that disturbs paint in homes built before 1978 falls under the EPA lead-safe rule (RRP) and needs a certified firm. We tell you before quoting whether your home can be painted by us.

Driveways, walkways, patios, pool decks and house exteriors are the common jobs. Tell us the surface and show us a photo; softer materials like painted wood or older stucco need a gentler method, and we say so before quoting.

Gutter installation is one of our property services. Call (407) 577-6400 with the length of roof edge and where downspouts can drain, and we quote after a short visit or from photos.

Celebration, Davenport, Four Corners, ChampionsGate and Clermont, Florida. We also reach nearby areas such as Kissimmee, Reunion, Haines City, Poinciana, Windermere, Horizon West and Lake Nona — call to confirm your address.

Yes. When a home has a rear alley, the turf, edges and the apron by the garage are part of the visit, and we blow the alley clean before we leave. Tell us if part of that strip belongs to the community so we leave it to their contractor.

Usually, yes, for changes seen from the street. Florida law stops a deed restriction from banning Florida-friendly landscaping, but the association can still review the plan. We prepare a plan and plant list for your submittal and start once it is approved.

Under the South Florida Water Management District’s year-round rule, odd addresses water Wednesday and/or Saturday and even addresses Thursday and/or Sunday, never from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. New plantings get extra days for 90 days. Check the district page for any new order.

Often, yes. Many shrubs can be cut back in stages over a season so they fill in lower down. Some have simply outgrown the spot, and replacing them is easier. We look at each plant and tell you which is which before we cut.

Water deeply on your day, early in the morning, and make sure every head reaches the edges. Mow at the high end for your grass so the blades shade the soil. Most browning under the order comes from poor coverage, not from the single day itself.

Yes. We keep a fixed visit day and can move it before an arrival when you tell us in advance. We send photos when something needs your decision, so you do not have to be on site.

Yes: 33837, 33896 and 33897. Some addresses in those ZIP codes are inside city limits and others are in unincorporated Polk County, so we confirm which applies before planning watering and fertilizer.

Yes. The Southwest Florida district allows watering on any day for the first 30 days after planting, then three days a week from day 31 to day 60. After that, the one-day schedule applies.

Your property tax bill or the county property appraiser’s website shows it. Your ZIP code alone is not enough, because some ZIP codes cross county lines. Give us your address and we check it before we plan anything.

It depends on the county. On the Lake and Orange sides, nitrogen and phosphorus are banned from June 1 to September 30. On the Osceola and Polk sides there is no summer ban, though weather limits apply. We plan your program by county.

Four Corners is served by more than one water management district, and each sets its own schedule. A home on the Polk side waters one day a week by address digit; a home on the Osceola side has two days a week. Check the district that covers your address.

Start with the irrigation coverage and the mowing height, because young sod depends on both. Then fill in the beds and add mulch. Bigger design changes can wait until you know how the yard handles a full summer.

We maintain everything up to your property line. The course and any common areas are kept by their own grounds teams. If you are unsure where your line is, your plat or survey shows it, and we can walk it with you.

Yes. We keep a fixed weekly day and can shift a visit before an arrival when you tell us in advance. Pressure washing, window cleaning and house cleaning can be booked with the same team.

Not always. ZIP 33896 crosses the Osceola–Polk line, and the two counties fall under different water districts. Your county decides your watering days, so we confirm it from your address.

It depends on the species and how fast it drops fronds and fruit. A common plan is a cleanup before hurricane season and another when stalks start to drop. We remove only brown fronds and stalks and leave the green crown.

Water runs downhill before it soaks into sandy ridge soil, so the crest gets less and the bottom gets more. Splitting each zone’s run into shorter cycles with a pause between them, within the one-hour limit, usually evens it out.

Under the St. Johns River district’s Phase III order, odd or unnumbered addresses water Saturday and even addresses Sunday, never 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. and no more than one hour per zone. The city may add its own rules, so check its water conservation page too.

Not with nitrogen or phosphorus between June 1 and September 30 under Lake County’s ordinance, which we follow as the guide inside the city too. We feed in spring and fall instead, with at least half of the nitrogen slow-release.

A planted bed with groundcover and mulch is often easier to keep than turf on a steep bank, and it holds the soil. On gentler slopes, new sod can work once the irrigation covers it evenly. We look at the grade and sun before recommending either.

Often enough that no cut takes more than a third of the blade, as UF/IFAS advises. For St. Augustine in the rainy season that usually means weekly; in the cooler months, every other week is often enough.

No, unless you ask. UF/IFAS recommends leaving clippings on the lawn because they return nutrients. We blow them off porches, walks and the alley and keep them out of storm drains.

No. If the backyard is behind a locked gate, leave us a code or a key arrangement and we close it behind us. Many Celebration owners never see the crew; they see the yard.

Most lawn grasses need several hours of sun, and a mature canopy blocks it. Raising the mowing height helps a little; in deep shade, a mulched bed or shade-tolerant plants usually look better than struggling turf.

The owner usually has to submit it, but we prepare the drawing and plant list and help you fill in the form. We start digging only after approval.

Florida law says a deed restriction may not prohibit Florida-friendly landscaping. The association can still review the design, so we plan beds that are water-wise and fit the street.

The install itself is usually one or two days for a Celebration front yard. Most of the calendar time goes to the association review, which we cannot speed up, so we plan the start date after approval.

Yes. Removal of old plants, roots and worn landscape fabric is part of the quote, and we haul it away.

We don’t. UF/IFAS research shows palms stripped of green fronds are weaker and more likely to lose their crown in a storm. We take off only brown fronds and stalks.

Not always. In Celebration some street-side and common-area palms belong to the community. Check with your association first; if it is yours, we schedule it.

Before hurricane season (June 1 to November 30) is a good time to clear dead fronds and fruit. After that, trim when brown fronds and stalks build up; how often depends on the species.

Usually not. Yellowing lower fronds often point to potassium deficiency, and removing them makes it worse. We leave them on and suggest a palm fertilizer plan.

It depends on the tree. If an ISA-certified arborist or a licensed landscape architect documents it as an unacceptable risk, Florida law says the local government cannot require a permit. Otherwise county rules may apply, and your association may have its own. We check before we schedule.

It is an option on the quote, priced separately, so you can choose. If you want sod or a bed where the tree stood, the stump has to be ground first.

Yes. We take it down in sections and lower the pieces by rope so the alley stays open as much as possible, then clean it before we leave.

Often, yes. Thinning the canopy and taking out dead wood is what UF/IFAS recommends to help trees through storms. If trimming will do the job, we say so before quoting a removal.

Under the current order, by the last digit of your address: 0–1 Monday, 2–3 Tuesday, 4–5 Wednesday, 6–7 Thursday, 8–9 Friday, from midnight to 4 a.m. or 8 p.m. to 11:59 p.m. on lots under an acre. The order runs through March 31, 2027.

Usually a sprinkler head that is blocked, tilted or not reaching. With only one watering day, any gap shows fast. Chinch bugs are the other common cause in sunny St. Augustine; we check for both.

We keep a fixed day and send photos when something needs your attention. If you want a photo after every visit, tell us when you sign up.

Not right away. Polk County bars nitrogen and phosphorus when sodding and for 30 days afterward, and UF/IFAS also advises waiting at least 30 days. Water is what new sod needs first.

Rock lasts longer and stays neat between visits, which owners like. Mulch keeps roots cooler and improves the soil, which plants like. Most rental fronts work best with rock near the drive and mulch in the planted beds.

The district gives new plantings extra time: any day for the first 30 days, then three days a week until day 60. We leave you that schedule with the project.

Yes. We send photos and measurements, agree on the plan by email or text, and send final photos when the job is done.

Many gated communities here require approval for visible changes. Check your community’s rules; we prepare the plan and plant list for the submittal.

We prefer an empty house, for safety around the pool. Send us your turnover days and we schedule between stays.

It depends on the species and how much fruit it drops. A common plan is a cleanup before hurricane season and another when stalks appear; we suggest a schedule after the first visit.

We blow fronds and fruit off the deck and clear what fell on the screen from outside. A full screen-enclosure wash is a separate pressure-washing job.

No. UF/IFAS found that palms with only a few fronds left were more likely to lose their crowns in the 2004–05 hurricanes. Removing dead fronds and fruit is the right prep.

Dead limbs, mushrooms at the base, cracks in the trunk and a new lean are warning signs. For a documented risk assessment, an ISA-certified arborist is the right person; we can point you to one before removal.

Yes. We arrange access with you or your manager, send photos before we start and after we finish, and report anything we notice on the property.

If you want, as a separate line on the quote. Before grinding, the underground utilities are marked through Sunshine 811, as Florida law requires for any digging.

Before hurricane season, which starts June 1, if the tree is dead or leaning. Otherwise any time of year works; we schedule around rental bookings.

Probably because you are in different counties. Lake and Orange ban nitrogen and phosphorus from June 1 to September 30; Osceola and Polk do not. We set each program by the parcel’s county.

A good spring feeding, the right mowing height and steady watering on your allowed days do most of the work. Where the county allows it, an iron or micronutrient product can add color without nitrogen or phosphorus.

On sandy soil, spots that dry out first are usually a coverage problem: a head that is blocked, tilted or spaced too far apart. We check coverage before suggesting new sod.

Four Corners addresses commonly use 33897, 34714 and 34747, and ChampionsGate uses 33896. Because ZIP codes cross county lines here, we confirm the county from your address.

Usually the front beds: widen them, define the edges and replace plants that are too small or too thirsty. That gives the most visible change for the budget. Backyard projects can follow.

Most associations here review visible changes. Check your guidelines; we prepare the drawing and plant list for the submittal and start after approval.

Each water district gives new plantings extra days for a set period, and the rules differ between districts. We find your district from your address and leave you the schedule with the project.

Organic mulch holds moisture and slowly improves sandy soil, which rock does not. Rock lasts longer and suits areas without plants. Many yards use both.

Yes. Many palms start flowering and fruiting as they mature. Removing the stalks early keeps the mess off your drive and lanai without harming the palm.

It depends on the county. On the Orange side, nitrogen and phosphorus are off-limits from June 1 to September 30 for landscape plants too. On the Osceola and Polk sides there is no summer ban. We check your parcel first.

Remove dead fronds, fruit and seed pods, and leave the green crown. Cutting palms down to a few fronds makes them weaker in wind, according to UF/IFAS.

No. We work from ladders or lifts. Spike wounds never heal on a palm and can let disease in.

It depends on your county and on the tree. A tree documented as an unacceptable risk by an ISA-certified arborist or a licensed landscape architect is exempt from local permits under Florida law. For other trees, we check your county’s rules, and your HOA may have its own.

Maybe not. Pond banks and conservation edges are often common property or easements. Check your survey or ask your association before scheduling a removal.

Yes. After grinding the stump, we can plant a replacement that fits the space and your association’s list, and quote both jobs together.

Most single residential trees come down in a day, including cleanup. Large trees near a house or pool cage can take longer because every section is lowered by rope.

One or two days before your most common check-in day, so the lawn is fresh for arrivals and the crew is not working during a stay. We set it from your booking pattern.

Growth slows in the cooler months, and many lawns are fine every other week. Rentals with frequent arrivals often keep a weekly visit for the edges and blowing, even when the grass grows less.

On the Osceola side, two days under the South Florida district’s year-round rule. On the Polk side, one day under the Southwest Florida district’s current order. Your address decides which applies.

We follow your community’s vendor process — a code, a pass or registration — and keep the instructions on your account so every crew has them.

Anything that sheds a lot of leaves, flowers or fruit, and anything that will grow into the screen. We pick compact, low-litter plants for that strip and keep them back from the frame.

Yes. Most front-yard projects take one or two days, and we schedule them in a gap between bookings.

Visible changes usually go through community review. We prepare the plan and plant list for you to submit and start once it is approved.

Rock does not cool roots or build soil the way organic mulch does, as UF/IFAS notes. We use it where there are few plants — along the deck or the drive — and mulch in planted beds.

It helps. A vacant day keeps guests away from the work area. Most homes take a few hours, so a same-day turnover gap is often enough.

We lower pieces near the cage to avoid that. If we find a torn panel, before or after the work, we send you a photo the same day so you can arrange a repair.

No. Yellowing fronds usually mean potassium deficiency, and cutting them makes it worse. The palm looks better within a season with the right fertilizer.

We send before-and-after photos of each palm and of the deck and cage once the work is done, so you can check from home and share them with your property manager.

Before hurricane season starts on June 1, and again whenever brown fronds and fruit stalks build up. How often depends on the species.

Yes. Each section is tied off and lowered away from the screen. If a panel is already damaged, we photograph it before we start.

Not without the owner’s permission. Contact the course or your association; with their OK we can trim what overhangs your lot.

We schedule it on a vacant day and leave the deck and pool clean, with photos so you can confirm before the next check-in.

Call or text us with the address and a photo. After a storm we clear access first — the drive, the entry and the pool deck — and schedule the rest of the removal for a later visit.

No, but a stump near a deck is a trip hazard for guests and blocks replanting. Grinding is a separate option on the quote, done after a Sunshine 811 locate.

Instead of one long run, the controller waters each zone in two or three short cycles with a pause between them. On a slope, the pause lets water sink in before more arrives, so less runs off. Total time per zone stays within the district’s one-hour limit.

A slow-release spring feeding carries it into summer, and mowing high with deep watering on your allowed day does the rest. Feeding resumes in October.

Often large patch, a fungus that UF/IFAS says is active in cool weather, especially where turf stays wet. Watering only in the morning and only when needed, and going easy on nitrogen, help. We can confirm what it is on a visit.

If a mower can’t hold the slope safely, we cut it with a string trimmer. If that is a weekly struggle, a planted bed may be the better long-term answer.

Edge the low side of the bed, break long slopes into terraces, and use rock where water runs hardest. Dense planting also holds the surface better than bare mulch.

Under the current Phase III order: daily for 15 days, up to three days a week for 30 days, then two days a week for the last 15. Check the city page too, since Clermont can be stricter.

Lake County keeps fertilizer at least 15 feet from lakes and wetlands, with none applied on saturated soil or before heavy rain. Shoreline work may need other approvals; ask us before planning anything at the water’s edge.

If a mower can cross it safely and the sprinklers cover it evenly, grass works. If it is steep, dry at the top or hard to mow, a planted bed with groundcover is usually easier to keep.

Most often potassium deficiency. Sandy ridge soil loses nutrients fast, and the palm moves potassium out of its oldest fronds. Leave them on and use a palm fertilizer at the right time of year.

We plan palm feeding outside the June 1 to September 30 window that Lake County sets for nitrogen and phosphorus, keep it 15 feet from water, and skip it when heavy rain is forecast.

Usually, yes. We level and secure the ladder or bring a lift where access allows. If a palm can’t be reached safely, we tell you before the visit, not during it.

If it stands over a roof, a driveway or the street, yes: dead fronds and fruit become debris in a storm. If it is healthy and away from targets, it can go longer between trims.

It can, because the roots were holding sandy soil. Grinding the stump and covering the area right away with sod, plants or rock keeps the ground in place.

If an ISA-certified arborist or a licensed landscape architect documents the tree as an unacceptable risk, Florida law says no local permit can be required. For other trees, city rules may apply, and we check them for your address.

Often, yes, if it is healthy. Thinning the canopy and removing dead wood is what UF/IFAS recommends for storm season. We tell you honestly whether trimming will do.

Each section is tied off and lowered, and debris is staged on level spots or held back before it is carried out. We plan the setup during the quote visit.

Yes. For landscaping changes we prepare a simple plan and plant list you can submit to your association. Approval itself is up to the HOA.

Yes. After a walk-through we send a written scope with each area, the visit frequency, what is included and what is not, so the board can compare bids line by line.

With a short note and photos to the manager: broken irrigation, dead plants, tree hazards, storm damage. Anything outside the scope gets a separate quote before we do it.

Yes, and the day can differ from residents’ days. Under the St. Johns River district’s current Phase III order, for example, nonresidential properties water on Tuesday. We set common-area controllers to the rule for your district.

Yes. Individual homes are quoted and billed separately from the association’s contract, so common-area work and private work never mix on one invoice.

Yes. Give us their contact and we share the visit day, gate instructions and any photos with them as well as with you.

Not for regular mowing and edging, which we schedule before arrivals when possible. Noisy or messy jobs — palm trimming, tree work, pressure washing — go on vacant days.

Yes. House cleaning, carpet cleaning and window cleaning are part of our property services, so the inside and the outside can be booked together.

Yes. Share gate or lockbox instructions for the outside areas, and we send photos when the work is done.

Whoever you tell us. The invoice goes to the person or company paying, with a private link to view it, and can be paid by Zelle, ACH, cash, Apple Pay, Venmo, Cash App or credit and debit card.

Yes. After the pre-listing cleanup, a weekly or every-other-week visit keeps the lawn showing-ready, and you can stop it when the house closes.

Visits happen on a fixed day, and we send photos when something needs your attention. If you want a photo after every visit, ask for it when you sign up.

We tell you with photos and, if it is work we do — a sprinkler head, a fallen limb, storm debris — send a quote. We don’t do extra work without your OK.

Yes. We build the lawn and bed schedule around your booking calendar, so noisy jobs happen on vacant days and the yard is cut before check-in. For cleaning, window and pressure-washing turnovers, one team can handle outside and inside.

We send photos whenever something needs your decision, such as a broken sprinkler head or storm damage. If you want a photo after every visit, ask for it when you sign up.

We work to your community’s written rules for mowing height, edging, bed maintenance and approved plants. Send us the guidelines at the quote stage so the scope matches them, and we can prepare a plan and plant list for architectural review.

Send us a photo of the letter and the yard. We tell you what the fix involves and how long it takes, so you can answer the HOA before the deadline. Note the date on the letter when you call.

Yes. We work in English and Spanish — on the phone, in quotes and on site.

That’s the idea. Lawn care, landscaping, tree and palm work, and property services like pressure washing, gutters and cleaning can all go on one schedule with one point of contact.